The Puna de Atacama or Atacama Plateau is an arid high plateau in the Andes of Argentina. The term "Puna" (Quechua) means "Moor" or "Cool Earth".
I first came to know about it though a chance encounter in my dentist's waiting room about a year ago. A travel magazine featuring pictures of what I initially thought was either the Chilean or Bolivian Atacama grabbed my attention. So familiar was the landscape that I assumed I must know of it. But I had never been here nor heard of it until this very moment.
One picture in particular drew me in. In a double-page spread, I found myself staring at the oddest looking conical shaped mountain I’d ever seen. Cono de Arita rises 122 meters above the Salar de Arizaro, the sixth largest salt flat on earth. It is also quite a distance from the nearest village of Tolar Grande which is 70km away.
Cono de Arita is an arresting object to experience. The way the tones of its dark pyramid shape contrast with the surrounding salt flat is quite startling. From the moment I saw that first picture of it, I knew I had to come and visit.
All the images in this portfolio were made during a six day tour. Just myself and my guide Pancho in his little 4WD pickup truck. He had water canisters in the back and a collection of Argentine music in the cab.
We spoke of many things during our drive across the plateau - he of Argentine culture, the geology of the landscape and most importantly, of his love for his beautiful little daughter. I spoke of what it's like to be Scottish and my love for the high plateau landscapes of the Andes.
At each moment of our many conversations, we remained the only static things in the landscape while outside, the terrain was always changing. Sometimes the transition would be instantaneous, other times we would spend many hours with the landscape not changing at all.
For instance, the journey out to the Cono de Arita for sunrise, a mere 70km away from the town we slept in, seemed to last forever. Despite seeing the volcano for well over an hour from the front seat of Pancho's 4WD, we seemed to get no closer to it. Such is the optical illusion of driving over a large salt flat: things far away appear to be deceptively close.
But what I discovered in the Puna was much more than the tantalising shape of cono de Arita. The Campo de Piedra Poméz (pumice stone field) for instance, is a massive area littered with pumice rock as big as boats and shaped just like them. Each rock faces the same way, with their sharply defined bows pointing towards some imaginary destination, ready to sail.
I ran out of time. Six days isn’t really nearly enough time to do the Puna justice. The distances were great, and due to frustration of not knowing the places well, I missed an awful lot. I often felt I turned up at places that would be great during sunrise, but I was there for sunset.
Like I always say to people who ask me how I find out about where to shoot:
"I often go at least twice, the first time to find out what it is I should photograph, the second time to go and photograph it. And if I really fall in love with the place, I keep going back to delve beneath the obvious".
I am already hatching plans to do just that.
My previous visits to Patagonia yielded monochromatic, often dark toned imagery. I felt at the time this really summed up my view of this landscape.
Seems I may have been too quick to judge as this year I found myself confronted with a softer, lighter view of the place.
But I think this new lighter imagery came about because of what I'd learned during my recent trip to Hokkaido. It was there that I finally felt I came to terms with lighter tones in my work.
Since visiting Hokkaido in December 2015, I feel my images have been moving towards the higher registers of luminosity. Rather than focussing on the dark tones and 'drama', I now feel I've found a few more octaves of light to play with. I feel I'm in new territory.
In this new work, there is a mixture of dark tones and sometimes light, airy tones. The skill, I believe, is to marry them so they feel part of the same set.
I'm so fortunate to return to Patagonia on a yearly basis. I feel as though this landscape often sets me new challenges, new homework, something to help my photography grow in some way.
Easter Island 2016
There are landscapes that we find challenging and hard, yet we find ourselves returning. It is as if we know there is something there, something worth shooting. It's just that we're not sure what's missing inside of ourselves to allow us to capture what we're feeling.
For me, Easter Island is just like that.
There's a starkness to this place. Black volcanic rubble litters the landscape and often times the light during the day is so harsh it seems that I'll never find the soft tones that I'm seeking in my photography. The light for me, is so different that I really can't make my mind up how best to approach it, so much so, that I've tried going back in different seasons to see if the light is more workable.
This June was perhaps the most successful trip I've had there to date, because it was also the most cloudy. With occasional overcast days that allowed me to shoot the statues and landscape with softer tones, I was happy. But I couldn't shake the feeling that I was still very much in my own comfort zone, willing the landscape to conform to me, and not me to it.
It's been thirteen years since I first visited the island. During that time I've been to many places that have resonated with me, where I feel I was able to grow and produce good work. I've also built up a lot of shooting hours now, so I had high hopes that if I returned to Easter Island now, I may be able to work with it.
This turned out to be only partly true. What I did discover was just how much I've changed since that first trip in 2003. I found myself reflecting a lot on what my level of ability was back then from a technical stand point, but I was more interested to discover that I was really looking for very different things now. I felt as if someone had peeled back a curtain to show me more than I'd been able to comprehend on my first visit.
It was enlightening in more ways than I could have imagined.
Being able to look back at where I'd come from was one thing. But because I was in a landscape that conjured up memories and feelings of who I was back in 2003, I couldn't help feel very reflective about my life. So much time had passed, and rather than being someone in is mid-30's, I was now someone fast approaching 50. I couldn't help look within.
I've often attributed photography to being another way for me to meditate. When I am out there making photos, I become invisible to myself. Time disappears, and the present moment often becomes the only thing occupying my mind.
I am here. Nothing else matters. The past and the future don't even enter into my mind. But sometimes, just sometimes, when I visit certain landscapes they seem to act as a mirror, a time to reflect upon who I am, where I've been and what life has meant to me so far. Other times they ask me questions about where I'm going and what the future may hold.
The landscapes we get to know hold many memories for us. They record imprints of who we were and what we were thinking during our past visits, and they remind us of these each time we return. It's a beautiful and special relationship, and I am often reminded that we're not simply here to make great captures; we're also here because of what this exchange does for us on a more intimate and personal level.
I guess that's why I keep returning to Easter Island. It is a landscape that asks lots of questions through the history I have with it.
Weather, Light, Colour, Emotion
Most folk who live in Scotland find the weather during November harsh. It's often wet, windy and cold.
But visiting the isle of Harris when there are many winter storms coming through, has given me the chance to work with atmosphere more than anywhere else I know of.
Although the island offers little in the way of craggy coast-line or sharply defined mountains, I find this lack of attributes ideal, because it allows me to focus on the basic elements of colour and tone.
Harris is all about atmospheric changes.
Often overwhelmed by the space around me, I find I seem to tune in to the elements, so much so, that I can spend days here absorbed in it all. And days I must spend, because Harris does not offer up its secrets in one day.
The variances of light on the landscape change and evolve slowly over days if not weeks and I often feel Harris is all about the study of time.
Above all, the changes in the landscape seem to reflect the changes that I notice within me as a photographer. And I feel there has been a change. Perhaps I'm trying less to tell the landscape what I want, and instead, I'm more at ease with letting it tell me what it wants.
Torres del Paine national park, in the southern region of Chile, is a place that I've been going to since 2003. I love this place dearly, despite it being a very difficult place to photograph.
For years I've been seeking to shoot this place with a lot of colour in mind. I guess I have been drawn in by those red Patagonian skies. But things have changed for me recently. I've come to realise that some places have a character due to the coldness of the light they are bathed in. Torres del Paine national park is one such place. It is a beautifully stark place, and I feel I've only just begun to understand it.
About the last photo
I always find myself full of thoughts about where I've just been and what I've experienced whilst there. Each time I fly home from Patagonia, the glaciers and mountains are sometimes hidden by a bank of cloud. There's something quite calming about seeing an inverted horizon above the clouds with beautiful tones. It's a great way to say goodbye to a place that is one of my homes from home.
Sometimes I feel as though I really know a place, only to find that I've really just scratched the surface.
The Altiplano of northern Chile and Bolivia had many surprises in store for me in 2013. I had not anticipated snow at such a high elevation during the season that I ventured here.
I'm only acutely aware now, that the Altiplano figures largely in my future as a place for me to work on my compositions, and my understanding of light, shade and tone. It offers challenges that I have not experienced elsewhere on my travels to date.
The Unveiling of a Portfolio
I often leave large spells between a shoot, and the editing of it. I find the distance allows me to gain some objectivity.
While I was editing this body of work, I realised that leaving things too long, can bring on a feeling of creative blockage. It was such a joy to work on these images. Each one has its own personality, and now that they're all here, I feel as if I've always known them. Like they were always here, but just out of sight, waiting to come out and show me who they are.
I also enjoyed watching the entire portfolio take shape. As each image was completed, I felt as if the mood and tone and story of the portfolio shifted and changed.
Tones & Simple Shapes
I didn't know quite what to expect returning back to Bolivia. Would I create the same kind of work as I did in 2009, or would I have a new way of looking at the same landscape?
I'm pleased to say that I didn't have an answer to this until I was back home, working on the new images from this trip.
I now see, that my first trip to Bolivia in 2009 opened up the door towards simple compositions and this recent trip allowed me to see how far I've come down that road.
It's been a beautiful journey so far and the altiplano is a great place to simplify, and think about tones and shapes only.
Vibrancy & Hues
On the altiplano, and particularly so on the Salar de Uyuni salt flats, one is forced to think about tone and colour only, because that's all there is to work with.
It really does make for a great lesson in 'less is more'.
But I feel that it's not just about improving craft.
The clarity of the light really does make for a very intimate experience. I do hope to continue to come here, as there is so much more that I have yet to explore.
Like an Arctic Tundra
Visiting the south coast of Iceland in January, was like seeing a familiar friend in a very new way.
We saw icelandic ponies, set like black silhouettes against the white backdrop of nothingness, and I often wished I could have made images of them. But it was not to be.
We had snow drifts and oftentimes the sky was inseparable from the ground that we were driving on.
The landscape still provided. I think in some ways, Iceland remains one of my best friends.
I took along a recently acquired hasselblad 500CM camera that I'd aquired from a dear friend. I love the square aspect ratio and I think it was great to come to Iceland, and see new compositions - suggested to me - by working with a new aspect ratio.
I think square has more of a graphic-art suggestion to it. I think this lends itself to influencing you to look at the landscape in a more abstract way. It's certainly something I wish to continue to explore. Sometimes, new (old) equipment can lead you in a new direction.
An alien landscape full of waterfalls
Returning home from Iceland, I found the first few days quite a challenge to adjust to. Not only is the landscape quite strange, but the atmosphere of the country and laid back attitude of it’s people certainly enhanced my travel experience.
Everywhere seemed to be littered with the most impressive waterfalls and many of the places had an alien quality to them. In particular, Jökulsárgljúfur National Park could have passed for Mars. Rocks litter the desert for as far as the eye can see. The experience was intensified by a desert like heat during the hottest summer they have had on record, along with incredible red skies courtesy of a midnight sun.
Iceland contains such a variety of landscapes consisting of glaciers, waterfalls, thermal springs, lava fields and black sand deserts. Just about any geological phenomenon can be found there in abundance.
With only one highway that circles the island, most of the 280,000 inhabitants live scattered around the coast or concentrated in Reykjavík.
The centre of the island is an inhospitable wilderness that is hard to penetrate for most of the year. Only for four months does the country thaw. This is the time when vegetation grows and tourists visit. For this reason, the vegetation is protected and it's respectful to camp in designated areas.
Highlights for me were many. In each area I visited, I spent several days concentrating on photography. I found it valuable to stay in one place for a good duration so as to get to know it, and experience it under different light conditions. This added to the experience of the places I visited.
Krafla is a place containing lava fields that are as recent as the 1980's, I witnessed it during the small hours of the morning and it was fantastic to be there under exceptional lighting conditions.
Landmannalaugar, situated in the central highlands was also a highlight. The land is very strange and I was able to view it from the top of Bláhnúkur during an approaching storm.
Detifoss and Selfoss waterfalls were also incredible to view during the small hours. A mist came in one morning and it was great to see Sellfoss appear slowly as the fog dissipated.
Watching Detifoss, Europe's most powerful waterfall tumble over the edge of the gorge during the small hours, as though it were doing it just for my benefit was a spectacular experience; It is often at these moments that nature in it's wildest form feels very close.
I feel as though I have made friends with Iceland. I know I will be back.
Taj Mahal, 2009
Majestic despite being compromised
One of the world’s iconic structures is corroding. Its translucent marble facade is being destroyed by the daily pollution in Agra.
This is not fog you see in these images, it is smog, pollution spewed out by the surrounding factories. I could taste it in my mouth, and I suffered heart-burn as a result of breathing it in for a few hours.
But I still fell in love with the Taj Mahal and its gardens despite the circumstances.
It is without doubt one of the most beautiful buildings in the world.
A welcome reprieve
After weeks of intense noise, intense smells, intense poverty, I was fatigued. Sensory overload had taken its toll on me. I wanted to find somewhere to retreat to and get some space away from the aggressive touting too.
India is not an easy country to explore. The mindset there is so strange, different, awkward, and the levels of beauracracy maddening.
But I was spellbound by the Taj Mahal and its gardens. It was a welcome reprieve from the madness of India.
It's a really beautiful setting, and no photograph that I have seen of the place prepares you for the majesty of it.
But I think part of its appeal for me was the tranquillity I experienced there. It was the only location in the course of a month’s travel where I had some space to think my own thoughts and not be pestered by strangers.
I wish I could say that the space to think, also gave me the space to breathe. But that simply wasn't to be. The daily pollution from the surrounding factories in Agra made sure of that.
Situated in the far north west of Scotland, Assynt is a true wilderness.
Out at Achnahaird beach, I was aware of the space around me. After being immersed in the mountainous landscapes of Inverpolly, it was a welcome reprieve to be on such an expansive beach with an endless sky.
Photographing here in winter has been a great experience for me. Sometimes too much time on my own, but I can't help feel that this is what's needed sometimes to create good images.
Just below Stac Pollaidh, I watched as the winter sun peaked above a mountain ridge and lit up some reeds in my immediate foreground.
My time in Assynt was like that. I was always on the verge, watching as the sun crept over the landscape turning shadows to light and light to shadows.
Assynt has some amazing scenery, and spending a week here doing some concentrated photography has been a real priviledge.
Winter above the Arctic Circle
Coming to Lofoten in March was like taking a step back in time. Leaving Scotland on a warm spring day, I was greeted in Lofoten with snow blizzards and incredibly beautiful winter light.
The island is quiet at this time of year. Everywhere is shut and you wonder why, as it is perhaps a very captivating landscape to experience.
Many of the images were taken whilst having to deal with sleet and rain lashing the front element of my camera's lens. I had no idea using my film camera if I was successful with my endeavours whilst there. But I like it just that way. It makes photography so much more engaging.
A new direction
For years I've always felt I had to travel long distances to see much more exotic landscapes than the ones I encounter in my homeland of Scotland.
But Lofoten has really opened my eyes to the possibilities of shooting in mainland Europe and Scandinavia during the winter months.
I feel I've only just started down a new path with the Lofoten portfolio and I know I am going to return to expand on this over the next few years.
And to think it all started with an invitation from my friend Vlad. I had no idea just where this invitation was going to lead me, and my photography.